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On the pergola tools and materials list, contained within the plans, tick off the tools and materials you already have and those you need to either borrow or buy. Borrowing tools can be very helpful but remember to return them in their original state or you might ruin a beautful friendship! It has been known!
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Buying off the internet
1) Click on the relevant tools and materials list and print it out if you wish.
2) Click on the link
3) This will take you directly to the item
4) Add to cart
5) Click the 'Back' button on your browser
6) Repeat until you have all you need
7) Check out.
Buying from a local DIY store or local specialist store
Follow the links below to find a store near you.
It could be a timber yard, builders merchant, agricultural and commodities supplier, a DIY store or mixture.
You can phone to check that they have the items in stock.
Buying some off the internet and some from local stores
This can often be a practical solution.
You could build the pergola using simple hand tools but you can save a lot of time and effort if you use powered tools.
Especially useful is an electric drill – either corded or cordless.
One of my favourite tools is my cordless electric saw, with two batteries – if it runs out, the battery goes on charge while I use the other. I always try to buy two batteries if there is the option, for all my cordless tools.
Cordless V. Corded Tools:
Cordless tools are great because you can use them anywhere and there are no cords to get in the way. Many jobs can be done with a cordless tool.
For more heavy-duty jobs, a corded tool is handy because generally they are more powerful, especially when using the hammer drill action for jobs such as drilling masonry.
Chuck with a Key V. Keyless Chuck:
The chuck is the part at the end where the drill bit or screwdriver bit fits. I go for a keyless chuck every time. It saves hunting for the key, and the drill and screwdriver bits are easier to change. However, over time, a keyless chuck may lose its grip a little. Tip – if you buy a drill with a chuck and key, tie the key around the cord, a little way from the drill and hopefully that way you won’t lose it! However, it is rare that you see this type now.
My recommendations:
· Use a power tool if it is going to save you a significant amount of time and energy.
· If possible have a cordless drill and a corded drill, the first for general use and the second for more heavy-duty jobs. When doing a job where you need to keep changing the drill bits and screwdriver bits, use the corded drill to drill holes and the cordless drill to screw screws in. It saves time changing the drill bits and screwdriver bits over!
Safety:
Always take great care when using power tools.
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear.
Don’t use in the damp or rain.
Use a circuit breaker where you plug the tool in.
Keep children and pets well away from the work area.
Concentrate! – stop for a break regularly and don’t work when you are feeling tired.
If you would prefer to put your posts in with concrete, go to ‘Adapting the Plans’ for futher detailed information.
Length of wood
The length of the rafters will depend on how wide and deep you wish to make your pergola. You can easily estimate the lengths you will need.
Measure, on the ground, how wide you want your entrance be – let’s say 6’. Add 18” for the rafter tail ends, which gives you 7’ 6”, so you should easily be able to get each rafter out of a 8’ plank.
If you want to build the pergola more or less according to the plans, then you will need 8 planks of wood at 8’(3.200m) long.
Don’t extend the width or depth of your pergola to over 6’, with only 4 posts. To extend the length or depth of your pergola to more than 6’ go to ‘Adapting the Plans’
Type of wood
You can use any type or colour of wood but it must be tanalised / pressure treated to stop it rotting. (The pergola that I built in my garden has lasted for 20 years and is still going strong). Use a cut end preserver to prevent the effects of weathering. You can paint this onto the cut ends before you attach to the structure, or do it afterwards.
Un-planed wood fits into metposts exactly. If you would prefer a smooth ‘finish’ to the wood, it will have to be ‘planed’. However, this has a marked effect on the finished size and therefore will be too small to fit into the Metposts. For ‘planed’ wood, I would suggest using concrete to put the posts into the ground.
If you wish to give your pergola a more ‘chunky’ feel, using thicker wood, or would like to use ‘planed’ wood, go to ‘Adapting the Plans’
Trellis Panels
The use of trellis panels is optional. You don’t need to have any or you could have 2 or 3. You would have 3 if you wanted to sit under the pergola, where it would act as a shady retreat. To learn more about how to do this visit ‘Adapting the Plans’
The height of the trellis panel will usually be 6’. As the panels usually come in widths of so many feet, you would generally go for a 4’, 5’ or 6’ wide panel.
Buying Wood
Try to buy all of your wood from the same place if you can, whether it is off the Internet or from a local supplier.
